Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, is a city where history and modernity meet in perfect harmony. Nestled amid Scotland’s stunning landscapes, this city offers an enchanting blend of ancient castles, contemporary architecture, literary legacies, and vibrant festivals. Edinburgh is one of my favorite cities, especially if you’re visiting during the fall. It makes for the perfect weekend trip, or as part of a larger trip to the Scottish Highlands. Whatever your plans may be for Edinburgh, I’ve detailed our 2-day itinerary below for how we spent our time in Scotland’s capital.
Scotland Weather
Generally, the best time to visit Edinburgh is anytime from May to September when the weather is warmer and there’s less rain. In my opinion, however, there isn’t any wrong time to visit Edinburgh. The city has a special charm in each season, and the pros and cons depend on the kind of trip you’re looking to take.
We took our trip at the beginning of October, mainly because we viewed Edinburgh as the perfect trip for spooky season. In October, Edinburgh experiences cooler and more autumnal weather. Average high temperatures range from 11-14°C (52-57°F), and evenings can be quite chilly. You should always expect rainfall in Scotland, and for us, this is just a part of Scotland’s charm. While the city’s parks and landscapes exhibit beautiful fall foliage, the weather is generally cooler and wetter than in the summer months.
If you don’t mind the cold, December is also a great time to visit due to Edinburgh’s Christmas markets. The city becomes quite festive during the holiday and with Edinburgh’s already cozy vibe, you can imagine the mood when the holidays come around. Temperatures range from 2-5°C (35-41°F), so you’ll definitely want to bundle up. To learn more about Edinburgh’s Christmas markets, you can find more info on their official site.
How We Spent 2 Days in Edinburgh
Day 1 – Walk the Royal Mile, Holyroodhouse, Mary King’s Close, Howie’s Restaurant & Victoria Street
Our day 1 in Edinburgh seems more jam-packed than it really is. While you could (very leisurely) spread this out over 2 days, all the things we did on day 1 were close to each other, making it relatively easy to knock things off our ‘must-see’ list.
The Royal Mile & Holyroodhouse
The Royal Mile is a historic, mile-long thoroughfare that connects Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. It’s filled with shops and restaurants and is a great start to discovering the city. We landed in Edinburgh in the afternoon and walked the Royal Mile down to Holyroodhouse. If you’re a fan of the royal family, I’d recommend taking time to visit Holyroodhouse as it’s the King’s official residence in Edinburgh.
You can book tickets for Holyroodhouse here.
The walking time to cover the entire Royal Mile depends on your pace and how much time you spend exploring the various attractions, shops, and historical sites along the way. On average, a leisurely walk from one end to the other, without many stops, might take around 20 to 30 minutes. To fully appreciate the area, I recommend blocking out at least 1-2 hours to explore.
Mary King’s Close
After walking the Royal Mile, it was time for our visit to Mary’s King’s Close. A “close” refers to a narrow, enclosed pedestrian alley or passageway. Closes are typically characterized by their narrow width, high walls, and proximity to various buildings. Mary King’s Close dates back to the 17th century, and it is actually one of the many closes that were buried beneath the Royal Mile as the city expanded and modernized.
The history of Mary King’s Close is shrouded in intriguing tales. During the 17th-century plague, many residents succumbed to the disease within its narrow confines, and the close was sealed off, creating a time capsule of that era. This dark past has given rise to various ghostly legends, making it a popular destination for those seeking a glimpse into Edinburgh’s haunted history. I would recommend touring Mary King’s Close during any season, but it was entertaining in October to get into the Halloween vibe.
During October, there are true crime themed tours of the close from Oct 13-31st. These tours get bought out quickly, and we sadly didn’t buy in time for the weekend we visited, but the classic lantern-led tours were still a great experience. You can book tickets for Mary King’s Close here. The tours last approximately one hour.
Tom Riddle’s Tombstone + Graveyard Walking Tour
This is for the Harry Potter fans – but it is the Halloween season, so why not go for a stroll in a cemetery? We made a little detour to Greyfriar’s cemetery during our walk to dinner. The grave of Thomas Riddell is said to be the inspiration for the name, Tom Riddle (Voldemort for you non-HP fans) in Harry Potter.
On our walk through Greyfriar’s Cemetery, I noticed a lot of walking tours and wished we had booked one. Edinburgh has quite a dark, haunted past and I would’ve loved to hear more about it from a guide. Especially as we visited in October, this would’ve been the thing to do to get in the Halloween spirit. Below I’ve listed a few paranormal walking tours:
- City of the Dead Haunted Graveyard Tour (£16.00 – 1.5 hours)
- Haunted Vaults and Graveyard Walking Tour in Edinburgh ($30.69 – 1.5 hours)
- Edinburgh Darkside Walking Tour: Mysteries, Murder and Legends ($26.23 – 2 hours)
Victoria Street
Victoria Street, Scotland’s most photographed street, was our next stop. It’s believed to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter, and the street is lined with plenty of shops, including the Museum Context Harry Potter shop, a store dedicated to all things related to the Harry Potter series by J.K. Rowling. It offers a wide range of Harry Potter merchandise, including books, collectibles, clothing, and various wizarding world-themed items.
Howie’s
To finish the day, we had dinner at Howie’s on Victoria Street, which serves seasonal, traditional Scottish food. We highly recommend making reservations ahead of time, just to secure your table. Here we tried haggis, which is basically minced sheep’s organs mixed with onions, oatmeal, and seasonings. The veal was delightful, but the toffee pudding was the star of the show for us. You can’t leave Scotland without a traditional Scottish meal, and Howie’s was the best place to do it.
Day 2 – Edinburgh Castle + Dean Village
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is a must-visit destination for anyone visiting Edinburgh. It’s hard to miss the castle as it overlooks the city from atop Castle Rock. The castle has a collection of museums within its grounds which walk you through its construction and history from the 11th century to the present day. It’s also said to have inspired Hogwarts for any Harry Potter fans reading this. We recommend booking tickets ahead of time as they are slightly cheaper online and spaces tend to get filled up.
You can book your tickets for Edinburgh Castle here.
Dean Village
Dean Village is a cornerstone of Edinburgh’s history. Located along the Water of Leith in Edinburgh, its charming stone cottages and cobblestone streets make it a serene escape from the city’s hustle and bustle. Dating back to the 12th century, it was originally a part of the Water of Leith Village, a milling community that powered up to 11 grain mills to provide food for Edinburgh’s growing population.
After its decline in the mid-20th century, the village underwent restoration and preservation efforts, transforming it into a picturesque and historic locale. We spent time roaming its streets and exploring Belgrave Crescent Gardens, the park right next to Dean Village. Today, Dean Village is a popular tourist destination, inviting visitors to explore its charming atmosphere and experience a glimpse into Edinburgh’s industrial and cultural past.
